Fabric Frenzy

Ok, so today, we drove to Ubud to take a class at Indigo Batiks. The man who owns the workshop is a member of the Balinese royal family, a little tiny guy with a big heart. As well as teaching girls the art of batik, he does microfinancing and has financed many of the women in his village, who have become quite successful, which in turn helps the village, of course. He was wearing a t-shirt he made himself with Gandhi on it.

Sorry I cannot remember his name. He holds a quilting magazine we brought him that had an article on him. Behind him are the copper and wooden batik stamps

We split in to two groups and my group did the batik stamping first. I picked a lobster stamp. I will have to show you my final batik later on because we left them to be dyed when we were finished with the wax process. Indigo dye takes up to 25 dunks to get that wonderful blue color. So. I loved it. I actually bought my lobster stamp at the end – around $15 U.S.  I hope to use it again.

the workroom

putting the stamp in the hot wax

applying it to the fabric (timing is everything!)

back into the wax - look at my lobsters!

The next stop was free hand. I didn’t do so well with that. I drew turtles on my fabric with pencil. Then, to the wax pot.  It gave me somewhat of an understanding of the conditions these women work under. Four to a pot and the heat? OMG it is killer. I was  dripping sweat. Also, it is very dim in the workshop and you would think you’d see more Balinese wearing glasses. Something to ponder . . . Anyhoo, the next step is painting your drawing with wax. So, I painted my turtles, picked a green dye, and got out of that sweltering workshop. Wicked. We will get our batiks back on the last dinner of our trip. Can’t wait. 

sweet patient ladies, tuck a piece of balinese batik in your lap while you're sweating over the wax pot--here they are working, a group of 4 around each pot

The guy on top is dyeing our projects indigo; they go into the vat below him 25 plus times

They had a showroom here as well with beautiful beautiful indigo batiks and some of the women dropped some big bucks here. I was happy with my lobster stamp.

So, off to busy, dirty, smoggy Denpesar, the capital of Bali, for lunch and the Big Shop. Woohoo! We ate at the Hong Kong restaurant and ventured out from there. Those who needed a break could come back to the restaurant for water and fruit (mangosteen-yum!) and to drop their packages and then venture out again if they dared. We were warned not to go with anyone and not to buy from these annoying street vendors who hound you. Having been to Italy and dealt with keeping the gypsies away from my nieces, I was ready for them. (Tu puzzi!)  

I did spot a family of five with a puppy on a motor bike!

This passenger has a harness around his chest and is holding the wagon stays. Jayzus 

I had three stores on my list and got to one. I managed to be one of the first of us through the door to this little shop and I just I just I just I just can't explain it. Oh, the feel, the smell, the COLORS – This cute kid came over to me and I started pulling batiks off the wall and handing them to him. I'll have this one and this one and this one and this one . . . Beautiful, I would say. Beautiful, he would repeat. 

Sweet guy carried and "cut" all of my fabric

He measures with a meter stick and then tears. See the pile? That is  what is left from my cuts! In the foreground, more to be cut. Took an hour or more and oh it was hot but I didn't care.

This little girl, called a porter, carried my bags back to the restaurant and then to the bus. Cost 20,000 rupiahs ($2) 

So, I ordered a salad to my room for dinner and played with my batiks ‘til bedtime. I need to go back to the market. I only made it to one shop! I need more blues . . .   Batik heaven.
So, I'm sure you're wondering (Mom): I spent 2 million rupiah! For 122 meters!!! Can you believe it? I'm still pinching myself. It's a wonder I'm not black and blue. Blue. I need more blue . . .

This morning we visited a batik factory in Denpesar and I have to say my first impression is that Bali is quite the chauvinistic society. The man is the artist and draws the pictures, the women sweat over the wax pots and paint the wax on his picture. When I asked if a woman was ever the artist, Suppi was quite surprised and when I asked if the men ever painted on the wax, he looked downright poleaxed (great word that) We also had an interesting conversation where he tried to explain that men could have wives and mistresses and would take responsibility for the children involved but that women were basically there to serve and be beautiful. hmmmm Typical man.

Toro drawing

So, having said that, it was interesting to watch the process. This is not the stamped batik, but rather a work of art that is then painted with wax. A bit like what my friend Gloria does on rice paper. Toro was the name of this man and he loved it when I told him that his name means “bull” in Spanish. He free hands all of his designs, just out of his head. He took a plain cotton tote, and in 2 minutes, it was covered with hibiscus, fish, butterfly, and my name. Then it was handed off to one of the women for the wax. Toro showed us the dyeing process, using his hands to mix up the fixer and colors and then to dip the fabric into a boiling vat of water. Tough guy. Suppi said well he is not from Bali, but from Java and then he made fun of his looks and they all laughed. Men

chantings for painting with wax, and the various waxes

the stamps, some copper, some wood

the wax pot

in the showroom - loved this

fixing and dyeing

finished project

We went in to their showroom and I found it quite pricey; the hand painted batiks were about $18/meter. Beautiful works of art though and worth it but not in my shopping budget. 

silver workers

the workshop and showroom

We also visited a silver place and watched these children really (girls), putting together these miniscule pieces of silver to make beautiful filigree pieces of jewelry. Again, into the showroom to shop. Expensive. I am starting to think Suppi and perhaps his extended family have something working to their advantage here . . . (kidding!!)

daddy watching babies

biggest lily pads EVER

Suppi took us to the Bali Zoo for lunch. Some of our group decided to ride the elephants or have their pictures taken with some of the baby animals. It left a sick feeling in my stomach and I had nothing to do with it. One of the women on the tour was quite put out withme for not taking her picture with a “bearcat” draped over her shoulders. Ugh. I will say the animals looked healthy and I especially loved watching the lion family but. Ok, I’m getting off my soapbox right now.

I have never really taken a tour before and don’t know if I would again. Don’t get me wrong, I’m having a fab time – just could have done without the zoo. Plus, had to wait and wait when all I could think of was that beautiful pool back at the hotel. Thankfully, those who wanted to do further shopping were overruled.

When we got back, I immersed myself in the wonderful infinity pool and watched the couples all around me. One of these days the loss of my husband will not even occur to me. Tonight, I found an Italian restaurant of all things, right on Sanur Beach and treated myself to a lovely Caesar salad with grilled prawn and a glass of local wine (Aussie grapes) while I watched the sea and probably got malaria when the mosquitoes discovered me.

So, listen to this:  I opened my blog today to put in a new post and it was in Indonesian!!  It wanted my kata sandi (password). Took me a minute to figure that out.
Anyhoo, arrived Depensar, Bali yesterday afternoon around 4pm (4am the day before, your time) and our guide, Suppi was there to meet us. Sweet as he can be. Says God bless you - I love you to punctuate everything. (And, btw Deb Roberts bailed at the last minute!)

I am staying at the Sanur Beach Hotel and here was the view from my room when I got in yesterday. The ocean is in the background.

 Just happened to arrive on the full moon, a holiday special to the Hindu people (one of about 3 gazillion.) Lucky me! So, big party outside last night.

full moon

 These guys accompanied dinner and then the show. Let me tell you, they were the only thing keeping me awake. A more discordant sound I never heard but not necessarily in a bad way. . .

 We had a buffet dinner. There were six stations and here is one of them. That head is a carved watermelon. Oh my.

Here is what I had for dinner. Bet you can't recognize a thing! It was squid, tuna, prawn and Indonesian smoked salmon, the saltiest thing I ever ate and couldn't finish that. The hot sauce was incredibly hot but so good. The waiters laughed at me saying, very specy, very specy!

The dancing was phenomenal. It took me 'til this morning to realize that the reason it looked a bit familiar was from watching The King and I. Remember? The hands and feet, the turn of the head, the rolling of the eyes. I loved it all.

 This guy was so creepy - He came off the stage, right up to me and took my hand. I said dida pa (don't know how to spell that as I learned it by listening) - means no sir! He had on this horrible mask with teeth sticking out. No way I was leaving my chair to go with him.

 By the end of the evening, I could hardly keep my eyes open and off to bed at 9:30pm. 12 hours ahead of you. I am pretty self satisfied with my adjustment to the time change but we'll see what happens today. Just had a buffet breakfast on the beach and leaving in half an hour for a Batiks factory to watch the process. Then what sounded like lunch at the zoo (although that can't be right) and then to a silver and beading market.
Bali is everything I thought it would be and more. Wish you were here.

I have never seen such a gigantic airplane in my life. I walked on and kept walking and walking and walking for like a quarter of a mile or something (and how the hell does it stay up, I ask you). The clue should have been when about 30 little asian women in updos, dressed in cute red uniforms, got on the plane ahead of us. They were a marvel.
That is the longest flight I have ever taken. In coach. oy vey. but I have arrived in Hong Kong in a thunder and lightening storm at 4:30am (4:30pm your time. Yesterday.) huh? Had to wait until 6:00 for the Starbucks to open. Happy now.  Here is a shot I took out the window when we were flying over the arctic (!) Seriously, I am not making this up. I nearly had the vapors.

So, now in Hong Kong airport for four + hours, waiting for the shops to open. Then off to Bali. Still pinching myself!

yummy Hong Kong Airport best in the world food! (their words)

toodles

I am on my way to Bali. Woohoo! I am sitting at JFK waiting for my 1:30am flight, slightly hysterical, anticipating the 16 hour flight to Hong Kong, a 4 hour shopping layover and then 5 more hours to Bali. Halfway around the world. I am going to join a batik lovers tour. I've been studying enough Indonesian to learn the requisite phrases, i.e. I don't speak Indonesian and Good Morning and I think I have Malaria, you get the picture. I never in a million years pictured myself doing this and really, when I got to Portland, I just wanted to turn around and go home but NO. I got on the plane and off I go on another adventure.
Can you believe? So, here is the suitcase I bought when I went to Ireland. Hugest suitcase ever!

Not! Check out my new purple ginormous suitcase. I call him Barney.

And look at Big Red IN Barney. I'm packing light and the plan is to have two huge batik filled suitcases for the return trip.

I'm still pinching myself.

* * *

The girls are in good hands. I wanted to share this picture with you. Last night I looked in the guest room and Florence was, wait for it . . . flossing their teeth!  I about died laughing.

you'll find out . . .

The girls help Jim out in the kitchen

So I picked Florence and Jim up from the airport in Portland. They flew in from Florida to stay with the girls while I am away. It was quite a welcome and as you can see, the girls are delighted to have Jim and Florence here!

First course. 

Jim is a fabulous chef!

And then we have the lady of leisure.

If you don't already know where I am going tomorrow, you may guess and if you're right, Lizzie Alone will send you a little somethin somethin that I have made right here in my studio!

Happy May Day!

Here is my affirmation for May:

It is time for me to be open to new opportunities. I have everything within me to take this new step. I am safe and well supported by the entire Universe. I greet all experiences with open arms. Today begins a glorious new month for me.

Well, guess what?